Amritsar - A Holy Land

This is my second write up and I am enjoying it!

No, I am not a Sikh By religion but I am forced to pen this down!

Whether you are a Sikh or not, this Holy place is a definitely a must visit once in your life time.
August 2013, with three days break for my kid, we decided to leave for Amritsar and explore the place. We took the Swarna Shatbdi Express which leaves at 07:20 a.m. from New Delhi Railway Station. We reached exactly at 13:25 hours and straight away proceeded to the hotel we stayed for 2 days (hotel Hongkong Inn, mentioned below). Being rainy days in the north, we decided to carry umbrellas with us. But things turned upside down when we reached our destination. It was hot and humid with all four of us drenched with sweat! But it was worth the visit!

We decided to visit the Wagah Border the very same day as we had only 2 days in hand and had to cover the most possible and popular destinations. We hired the hotel cab and proceeded to Wagah Border. It is the only roadd border crossing between India and Pakistan. Wagha, in Pakistan is a village through which the controversial Radcliffe Line, the boundary demarcation line dividing India and Pakistan upin the partition of India was drawn. The village was divided in 1947 by gaining Independence. Today, the eastern half of village lies in the Republic of India and the westernhalf lies in Pakistan.

Crowd at the Indian side

The Pakistanis on the other side

If one really wants to catch the glimpse of the flag raising and delivering ceremony without much interruptions, one should arrange for the VIP pass that is made available only by the BSF authorities. The VIP seats are nothing but the seats closest to the gates, and the seats - plastic chairs or maybe even on the ground.  A separate VIP area/ seating arrangement is given only to the foreigners. We reached the border at 16:15 hrs and we thought we were too early for the same. But we were relieved when we saw the crowd dying and waiting to enter the border gate going through a number of formalities. As we had the VIP pass, we were lucky enough to skip the formalities. We got the topmost seat which we thought otherwise is the best place to view the ceremony. The ceremony involves tall, i mean really tall soldiers or jawans as we may call in massive turbans goose stepping and slamming gates. In addition, before the actual ceremony starts, the crowd waiting performs to the tunes organized by the BSF. The Indian side can gather more than 2000 people and it is worse during public holidays and weekends. 
Please note there is no crowd management by the BSF resulting in extreme chaos . There are no sheds in the seating area resulting in rivers of sweat soaking you all over.  Make sure you don't carry any bags, any kind of bags, including ladies purses and handbags. Only men's wallet and water and milk for infants is allowed. I knew this, because I have an infant . Not at all advisable to go on hot days.
After much wait, the ceremony started. 

The lady jawans 

Indian jawans

The ceremony started after the chaos was finally brought down a bit. Jawans from both the sides synchronize their parade and the entire event is supposed to create a patriotic feeling within oneself called the beating retreat ceremony. Both sides, the jawans were treating the other side as the lower side. Wished if the Indian side behaved as foreigners and maintained discipline, thus avoiding any type of chaos!

After the ceremony, on the way, we proceeded to the famous "Kesar da Dhaba" for sinner. It has been running since nine decades and there are many mouth watering dishes with the traditional Punjabi flavour one could ask for! The list of celebrities dropping down to this place is many! if you want to taste the real flavours of Punjabi suisine, no matter where you are, how much time you have, step down to this place for the authentic cuisine! Afer the heavy, tummy-full dinner, we had just one thing in our mind wandering and that is sleep!

The next day we had to cover the other places and so chopped our itenary. More places and of course shopping! Our journey began in the morning by our visit to the Golden Temple.The Golden Temple, also referred as The Harmandir Sahib and the Darbar Sahib is a prominent Sikh Gurudwara in the city of Amritsar. Completed in 1604, Guru Arjan, installed the Guru Granth Sahi, the holy book of the Sikhs and appointed Baba Buddha as the first Granthi of it on August1604. Unlike any other temple, there are four doors at the Harmandir Sahib which symbolize the openness of Sikhs towards all people and religion. Harmandir Sahib literally means "Temple of God".  

Devotees taking a holy bath

The temple is surrounded by a sarovar, which consists of "amrit", as believed which means holy water. Before visiting the temple, the visitors, generally Sikhs bathe in the holy water. The fishes in the holy water is a mesmerizing sight and they do not hurt you.

Truly , the temple is so pure that you wouldn't wish to leave the premise and meditate for your own good.  However, there are few things you would like to keep in mind before visiting the temple:

• The temple is so pure that one is not allowed to carry any eatables in the premise.
• Big or small, you need to cover your head with dupatta(for ladies), kerchief(for gents). For those who do not have either of any, do not worry - The Gurudwara provides scarves for the visitor. Also, there are many sellers for the same outside thew Gurudwara each costing Rs. 10/-. Donot even once forget to drop off the covering as the Sikh authorities are on the rounds to remind you of the same. Covering the head is a sign of respect.
• One must also sit on the ground crossed-leg while in the Darbar Sahib.

After queuing up for at least one hour, we got the chance to enter the main premise. It was so heavenly. Listening to the hymns and surrounded by people reading the holy granth (copy) was making you feel more spiritual and divine. At the exist is offered Kara prasad, not to be missed which is full of dripping ghee. My younger one did not mind it having for the second time. This place definitely teaches you discipline. It is best if you leave for the temple as early as possible  in the morning! the temple is open from 03:00 hrs. So plan accordingly ! 

After the darshan, we directly proceeded to the langar area, a free meal seva to all the visitors. Not thousands, but ten of thousands odd visitors. All cooking and maintenance of the Golden Temple complex is carried out by the worshipers who volunteer their services. We were been served with the famous Dal Makhni, Kala Chana, Kheer, Roti and Water. All divine, pure and blessed!


We then not wasting any time, proceeded to the Jallianwala Bagh Memorial.

Bullet marks on the wall

 Jallianwala Bagh is a garden in the city of Amritsar. Jallianwala Bagh reminds us of the great tragedy and the cruel massacre in the history of Indian freedom struggle which took place in the year 1919.  The memorial was built to pay tribute to all those who lost their lives in this cruel incident in which almost thousands of people were dead (Official British Indian sources gave a  figure of 379 identified dead).  General Dyer without warning the crowd to disperse blocked the main exits thereby saying that this act was not to disperse the meeting but to punish the Indians for disobedience. Dyer ordered his troops to shoot towards the densest sections of the crowd . The firing lasted for appx. 10 minutes in which many people lay dead. Also, to escape from firing, many people jumped into the solitary well on the compound out of which 120 bodies were taken out.  One can still witness the bullet marks on the wall. A 5 minute walk from the Golden Temple, this place is worth going to personally pay tribute to the Indians who lost their lives! A sad and a gruesome attack which be remembered by all!

For more history, visit
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jallianwala_Bagh_massacre

By the time, we were out of the Jallianwala Bagh, our tired body did not allow to venture out anymore! We decided to go back to hotel, take some rest and head back again to Durgiana temple. We had lunch at the hotel. Butter Chapatis. Butter Paneer Punjabi, Dal Tadka and accompaniments. The hotel food was too good and the hunger in our stomach, inspite of having langar at the Gurudwara was filled to the satisfaction. On the way back from the Jallianwala Bagh, we hired an auto, whose driver , Satnam Singh was very helpful. 
After due rest, we boarded the auto. The auto driver on the way, was kind enough to make us have a sip of the famous Gyan Chand lassi (estd:1937). I bet, we had never had such a lassi in our lifetime with so much malai (cream) floating on top of it making it more rich. I would recommend this place to one and all visiting Amritsar. 

We then proceeded to Durgiana Temple, situated in the city. It derives the name from Goddess Durga and also called as Lakshmi Narayana Temple. The temple was constructed by harsai Mal Kapoor in 1908 similar to the pattern of the Golden temple, It is located near the Lohgarh gate. Some may call the temple as Silver temple because of its silver carved doors. 

The temple complex also has other deity - Sita Mata and Bara Hanuman (in a peculiar sitting position).  Like the Golden temple, this temple offers langar to the pilgrims and needy people for free. All costs are borne by the donations recieved by devotees. This temple is also surrounded by the sarovar. Now you may recall as to why we say that it is a replica of Golden temple. 
For more details one may visit http://www.durgianamandir.com/

After visiting Amritsar thoroughly, we then decided to shop - ladies favourite thing on the earth! We straight away landed to "Sandeep di Hatti"(located at Katra Kanhaiya) to shop the famous Phulkari dress material. Thanks to my sister because of whom we did not bother to hunt , explore any other wholesale cloth shop available. This shop carries out stitching of the dress and also courier the parcel to the respective place. So all you guys, if you are in look out of an actual patiala style dress, check out the place, get it stitched there itself and you will not be disappointed. Amritsar is known for its wholesale textile business! The saying "Shop till you drop" perfectly suits at this place!
After a long day visiting places, eating and shopping, we called off for the day and bid adios to the city of Amritsar to board our next train back to Delhi at 05:00 hrs in the morning.  

Best time to visit: October to March. 
Dont even think of going in summers. Amritsar, as a city, is very crowded, polluted with narrow lanes allowing only a car to go at a time. The city is congested with shops, traffics and tourists all over. As far as possible, hire an ac car instead of an auto.

This place is worth visiting once in your lifetime. So pack your bags and be ready to put yourself in the hands of Wahe Guru!

Since we have been talking so much food in Amritsar, check out my recipe of Palak Paneer. Paneer is loved by both kids and adults. Used in variety of dishes, we love it best when mixed with Palak (Spinach). One can also prepare paneer at home at their own convenience. 

PALAK PANEER

Preparation time: 15 mins.

Cooking time - 15-20 mins.

Servings - 4

Ingredients:

Spinach - 250 gms blanched and pureed 

Clarified butter (ghee) -  250 gms

Paneer - 200 gms

Onions - 4

Tomatoes - 3 (pureed)

Ginger - 1/2 tspn

Garlic - 1 tspn

Curd - 4 tblspn

Red chilli powder - 1 tspn

Turmeric powder - 1/4 tspn

Garam masala powder - 1/2 tspn.

Salt to taste

Method:

1. Remove stems of spinach, wash thoroughly for 4-5 times in running water.Blanch it in boiling water for 2 minutes. Grind it to a fine paste.
2. Shallow fry the pureed spinach in clarified butter till it changes colour. Spinach paste is ready. Keep it aside.
3. Cut the paneer into cubes. Shallow the paneer cubes in clarified butter and keep aside.
4. Heat ghee in a pan. Add onion paste, tomato puree, ginger garlic paste and curd. Cook till it is done.
5. Now add spinach paste, red chilli powder, turmeric powder, garam masala powder and salt. 
6. Mix well and cook for about 5 minutes.
7. Now add the paneer cubes in the above gravy and cook again for 5 minutes.
8. Palak Paneer is ready to eat.

Serve hot with rotis/chapatis

Note: You may also use fresh cream instead of curd. However, the same needs to be added just before serving.

Till the time we meet next,  "WaheGuruji Ka Khalsa, WaheGuruji Ki Fateh"

References: http://www.wikipedia.org/

Lansdowne - Close to Divinity!

One of the quietest hill stations in India, Lansdowne is located in the Pauri-Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. 

Unlike other hill stations, Lansdowne is a truly a " Home Away From Home". It is far far away from the crowded, and noisy places and yet to be commercialized that most of the hill stations are now to a popular tourist group. 

One should thank the local Army Cantonment Army Board which manages and regulates the development in the town thereby maintaining its serene and divine nature.

History:

Lansdowne was named after Sir Henry Charles Keith Petty-Fitzmaurice, 5th Marquess of Lansdowne, 6th Earl of Kerry and Viceroy of India from 1888 to 1894. The British Garhwal activities took place during the British period. On 5th November, 1887, the first battalion of Garhwal rifles migrated from Almora to Lansdowne. Lansdowne, currently has the command office of the Garhwal Rifles division of the Indian Army. The architecture of the buildings and the Church built during the British India period would compel you to think about the pre-independence era.

Experience the divinity in you:

The drive to Lansdowne will be the best drive of your life. The route goes through small hamlets and thickly-densed and forested countryside roads. Surrounded by thick Oak and Pine forests, Lansdowne is a very inviting place for a quite and serene holiday as it is devoid of the usual hustles and bustles of other stations. A perfect place to meditate and rejuvenate your soul, Lansdowne will not let you down for once!

The magical sounds and music of the chirping birds, the bracing air, the green hill, the varied flora and fauna makes Lansdowne all the more a colorful and pleasing hill station, along with the wonderful view of the extensive Himalayan snow ranges which inspires peace and harmony.

Our two day holiday in Lansdowne in the month of May 2013, a perfect weekend and a breathtaking experience is nothing less we could ask for! We drove down to this magical place which took us around 6 hours to reach from Delhi, all way just asking for more and more beauty. The hill slope starts from Kotdwar making the drive more fun and happening! With our cousins accompanying us, the entire trip was awesome!
The long walks, the  rhythmic sounds of birds all along and the cool breeze made us feel aesthetic. Long nights, the haunted stories and the playing card was there with us for the two nights. The homely food at the resort (mentioned below), the gesture provided by the staff, the right mood and attitude, and the scenic charisma of Lansdowne will say only one thing to you "Just one more day here, please!"

Not to miss..

If you are still not satisfied with the walks along the nature, there is plenty to see in and around. have a look at :

• The Garhwal Rifles Regimental War Memorial: Established on 11th November 1923, founded by Lord Rawlinson of Trent, the then Commander in Chief of India is located at the Parade Ground. It attracts many tourists landing in Lansdowne.
• The Garhwali Mess: Built in January 1888, it currently serves as the present mess since 1892. One of the oldest buildings and heritage site in Lansdowne. However, we did not make it here. 
• St. Mary's Church: This artistic church from the nineteenth century a witness of British era and legacy. This church was built by Colonel AHB Hume in 1896. The church was restored by Garhwal Rifles Regimental Centre after the church fell into disuse after 1947.
• St. Johns' Church:Previously a forest bungalow, St. John's Church is a Roman Catholic Church and the only Church of worship in Lansdowne.
• Tip and Top: Tip and Top is on the ridge close to St. Mary's church.  The magnificent and panoramic views of the Himalayas draws the major attraction to the tourist. One can also opt for trekking to this region.

Kid's Fun: 

• Bhulla lake: A perfect place for kids which is the only entertainment in Lansdowne. It is an artificial lake dedicated to the young Garhwali youth of Garhwal rifles, who rendered help for the construction of this site. the tourists can enjoy boating and paddling. A children's park is also nearby the lake.

How to reach:

By Road: NH58 to Meerut; state highway to Kotdwar via Bijnore and Najibabad; state road to Lansdowne via Duggada.

By Rail: The nearest railway station is Kotdwar (40kms). Buses and taxis are easily available from Kotdwar to Lansdowne.

I would personally suggest that one should experience the road journey through the small hamlets and narrow lanes to reach this serene place. Be careful as the roads are really steep.

Best time to visit: Anytime during the year.

One can experience snowfall during peak winters.(Jan-Feb) 

Where to stay:

Undoubtedly, Fairydale Resort! 

Its beautiful location and awesome food which is not be missed drags the tourists to this place. We always say, that kids are fussy eaters. But at this place, I bet that you wouldn't say. The lovely gesture by the excellent staff and the food which was so homely did not even make us feel even for once that we are away from home. The biggest entertainer for the kids at this resort is Pluto, the dog. It is so friendly. You would stop being afraid of dogs anymore!
Address:

Fairy Dale Resort,

Lansdowne- 246155

Distt. Pauri Garhwal.

Uttarakhand.

Tel : 01386-262599

Mob: +919412081837/+919412025206/+919410074848

Email: contactus@fairydalelansdowne.in/ ashok@fairydalelansdowne.in/ pankaj@fairydalelansdowne.in

Other recommendations: Blue Pine Resort, Kasang Regency Hill Resort

What to eat:

The gigantic/huge aloo ka paratha is famous in Hotel Mayur. Being a small town, there are few eateries in the bazaar square.

As we are talking about the famous aloo ka paratha, which is loved by both kids and adults, Check out my recipe which I make almost every week for my kid as she relishes it the most!

The most easiest and quickest recipe which can be made when you have nothing else in hand except aloo!

Aloo ka Paratha

Preparation time : 10mins.

Cooking time: 30 mins

Servings: 10-12

Ingredients:

For the dough:

Whole wheat flour  - 3 cups

Salt - 1/2 tsp.

Oil/Ghee - 2 tbspn.

Water as needed 

For the filling:

Boiled potatoes - 4

Chopped onions (optional) - 1

1 tspn chopped coriander.

Green chillies - 4 chopped

Ajwain - 1 tspn

Amchur powder (optional) - 2tspn

Garam masala powder (optional) - 1 tspn 

Salt to taste

Method:

For the dough:

1. Mix flour, ghee and salt as needed together with water to a semi soft dough.
2. Set the dough aside and cover it with damp cloth and rest it for 10-15 minutes.

For the filling:

1. Mash the potatoes coarsely without any lumps and keep it aside.
2. Heat ghee in a frying pan, add ajwain and onion and fry till it is golden brown.
3. Add green chillies and fry again.
4. Add the boiled potatoes, chopped coriander, amchur powder, garam masala powder and salt. mix well the mixture and cook it for 2 minutes and keep aside.  Dont keep it for too long as the potatoes are already boiled.

How to make paratha:

1. Divide the dough into 10 equal parts.
2. Roll out the dought to a 5" diamater.
3. Now stuff one part of the filling in the dough right in the center of the rolled circle.
4. Now bring together all the sides and seal tightly so that the stuffing does not comes out.
5. Roll out again into a 5" diameter with the help of some flour. (I use rice flour as it gives you the perfect shape and slides smoothly.)
6. Heat the tava in medium flame and place the paratha thereby adding ghee/oil
7. Cook till both the sides turn golden brown.
8. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling to relish delicious parathas.
9. Serve hot with pickles, curd 

Good bye for now. Looking forward for more travel and food in the next!